Infinity Kappa Loudspeaker Installation
by Jeff Lucius
in the Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth
These tips show how I installed the Infinity Kappa 63.1i (6.5") and 693.1i (6"x9") speakers in my 1992 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo. I am not a sound engineer nor an audio consultant, so this represents the epitome of homemade, do-it-yourself installation with no concern for acoustics. The rear 6"x9" speaker bolts right in with only minor modification to the ported enclosure. The door speaker requires replacement of the stock mounting bracket. Both speakers require jumper cables to connect to the harness.
As I installed each set of speakers, I compared the new speaker to the old, stock original. The original speakers are louder at the same stereo volume setting. However, the sound quality of the Infinity Kappa speakers is much better. The mid- and high-range frequencies are much clearer and better represented. The bass notes are less boomy but still not as nice as dedicated woofers. I am still using the stock stereo system.
Infinity no longer makes the "1" series. The current (November 2003) 6.5" and 6"x 9" 3-way speakers are the "5" series, 63.5i and 693.5i. The "5" series of these speakers include a crossover that must be connected in-line to amplified output, that is, the wires from the speaker output of the head unit or an amplifier. If you have these newer speakers you will need to include positioning the crossover module and connecting the factory wires to the crossover and the crossover to the speaker terminals. The larger terminals on these speakers is always the positive (+) connection. Also note that the 693.5i speaker needs a 3-3/16" mounting depth. Other owners have assured me there are no clearance problems installing the new 693.5i speakers, except , of course, for having to trim or remove the tubular port. The separate crossover unit is supplied with double-sided tape for mounting.
|Infinity Kappa Speakers
||6" x 9" 3-Way
||6" x 9" 3-Way
||70W rms, 210W peak
||100W rms, 300W peak
||75W rms, 225W peak
||110W rms, 330W peak
|Sensitivity (2.83V, 1m)
||50 Hz - 21 kHz
||38 Hz - 21 kHz
||45 Hz - 22 kHz
||35 Hz - 22 kHz
The door trim panel must be removed to gain access to the door speaker. I have instructions for this at 2-door-panel.htm. For the rear speakers, the quarter trim panel must be removed; instructions are at 2-qtr-panel.htm.
The Infinity Kappa 63.1i 6.5" round speaker has a tweeter protrusion of about 3/4" above the mounting surface. The stock speaker frame extends only about 1/2". Fabricating a new mounting bracket helped to "lower" the mounting surface by 1/8", but the fit of the 63.1i against the door panel speaker grille is still very tight. This does not seem to affect the performance of the speaker; I will have to wait and see if the slight pressure from the cover eventually causes any damage to the new speaker. The stock bracket offered some protection for the speaker against any water than might get inside the door. This fabrication does not.
I decided I needed a new mounting bracket and looked around the house for material. A lid from a 5-gallon bucket worked perfect. The lid is 3/32" thick and can be cut with a utility (razor) knife. Remove the stock bracket from the door and trace its outline, including the mounting holes, onto the lid. Drill the 3/16" mounting holes and place the old bracket on the new one to be sure the holes line up. I used a large hose clamp to help me trace a 5¼" circle near the middle of the new bracket pattern. Cut the circle out. Test fit the speaker then mark its mounting holes and drill them out. Now cut out the new bracket from the lid. I attached the speaker to the plastic using four 6x32x3/8" machine bolts and nuts.
I made jumper cables out of 2½" 18-gauge insulated wire with ¼" male blade connectors on one end (for the factory speaker connector) and 1/4" and 1/8" female blade connectors for the Infinity speaker. To insulate the bracket from the car door I used some non-skid rubber mesh that is used to line desk drawers. Some thin foam could also be used. The factory harness connector is shaped like the letter "T", with the top bar of the "T" being the positive (+) terminal. The Infinity speaker terminals are not marked positive and negative and my first guess was wrong. The speaker sounded like it was blown when I tested it. I reversed the connections and the speaker worked great. For these Infinity speakers the wider (larger) terminal is always the positive connection. The picture below indicating steps 9, 10, and 11 shows the wires connected backwards.
The tweeter protrusion of the Infinity Kappa 693.1i 6"x9" oval speaker is not a problem. However, the driver magnet is larger than the stock rear speaker (for my '92 Stealth TT). I cut off about 1" of the "port" cylinder with a hacksaw blade to make room for the magnet. The mounting holes matched perfect. I used the same jumper cable setup for the rear speakers as I used for the door speakers.
Page last updated November 11, 2003.